Read at the Evening Meeting, November 28th, 1881. (Editors note: some of the descriptions of native people are of the time, and may cause offense.)

March 1877 I was appointed to the London Missionary Society’s pioneer expedition in Central Africa; to myself was committed more especially the care of such scientific observations as could be carried out amidst our various duties, the survey of the lake, and the marine department of the Mission. To aid me in this work, I was introduced by the late Dr. Mullens to your Society, and received from the late Commander George such information as enabled me to use with effect the meteorological instruments with which we were provided, and especially a most careful instruction in the use of the hypsometrical apparatus, by aid of which I have been able to produce a section of the country in addition to my map of the route. I have presented to the Society a two years’ series of meteorological observations made at Ujiji, and a three months’ series made at Kirasa’s, in the Mukondokwa valley. Mercurial barometers have also since been set up at Urambo and at Uguha.

Road to the Lake.—The road we were to take, though parallel to some extent with what might be called the old road used by Cameron and Stanley, was in fact almost entirely new. The portions from Saadani to Mpwapwa, avoiding the Makata swamp, were taken on the recommendation of Mr. Roger Price, who had made a preliminary journey so far; and the portion leading through the territory of the chief Mirambo was determined on with the twofold purpose of avoiding the Arab settlement of Unyanyembe, and of opening friendly negotiations with Mirambo.

More than this, we were to introduce a new (for Central Africa, at least) system of transport—bullock waggons.

Landing at Saadani in June, we at once commenced training bullocks for this service, and at the latter end of July we really started for the interior with our bullock train. Succeeding eventually in reaching Kirasa, the bullock transport came to an end by the death of these animals by the tsetse fly. Every other difficulty had been overcome for 150 miles of the most difficult part of the road, and only in respect of the fatal tsetse can this experiment be called a failure. Returning eventually to the ordinary modes of transport by porters, the remaining part of the journey, namely from Mpwapwa to Ujiji, was accomplished in 87 days, a journey which, considering the amount of goods carried and the new experience to be bought, has not yet been surpassed. We arrived at Ujiji on the 23rd August, 1878.

I think there has been much misapprehension in England with regard to this old road. At one of your meetings in December last year it was stated, in comparing it with another road, that a caravan journey from Zanzibar to Ujiji occupied six months, and that the rate for transport of goods was about 400l. per ton; whereas the fact was, our first real caravan journey was accomplished in 116 days, or less than four months, the second in 99 days, and I have myself walked over the same road in 62 consecutive or 50 marching days. The 400l. per ton represented not mere transport, but most exceptional loss.

Again, in the Times of the 27th of March 1879 it was stated that, with the assistance of steam power on Lake Nyassa and the river Zambesi, the journey from Lake Tanganyika to Quilimane might be accomplished in 45 days, and to London in 75 days, and the writer was apparently ignorant of the fact that, nearly a year before, the first party we despatched from Ujiji by the old road reached the coast in 45 days, the letters reaching London in 78 days. Of this route I have made a map and section. The latitudes of various points have been fixed by meridian. observations of stars north and south. On my recent journey to the coast I measured the road distance of each day’s journey by means of a perambulator which I constructed at Ujiji.

The moist and luxuriant coast region, the scrubby plains and harsh thorny jungles of eastern and western Ugogo, with the beautiful forest dividing them, the step on to the forest plateau of Uyansi and Unyamwesi, the growing luxuriance of the Tanganyika watershed, I cannot here describe; I hope to do so some day, together with the surprising advances to be observed in the arts and industries and in social order amongst the natives as we proceed further inland.

General Description of the Lake.—Lake Tanganyika is 330 miles in length, with a coast-line of 900 miles, and its depth is hitherto unfathomed. A survey spreading over such distances, although of two years’ continuance, must necessarily be but a rough one.

Various theories have been suggested to account for the disposal of the vast quantities of water which drain into the Tanganyika, such as enormous evaporation, subterranean outlet, &c., &c. What I have to remark on this point embraces no theory, but is a simple account of observations made during my residence upon the lake shores. I found the lake to be 2700 feet above the sea-level, and at the time of our arrival Arabs and natives alike agreed in informing me that its waters were slowly but surely rising, and had been doing so for some length of time. But a close observation on my part failed to ascertain any rise, and desiring to obtain accurate information on the subject, I erected, in March 1879 a water gauge on the shores at Ujiji. By the 27th of May I found that the waters had fallen 2 feet, and they continued to fall until, in August 1880, they reached a point 10 feet 4 ½ inches below my original watermark. Most evident signs of the receding of the waters might be seen ail round the shores of the lake, in belts of dead timber and bleached rock. The Arabs were agreed that, shortly before our arrival, the Lukuga obstruction was broken away, and I am inclined to believe from these reports, and from personal observation, that the lake had been rising gradually for a long term of years, until the force of water carried away that obstruction, and the Lukuga river became the veritable outlet of the lake. That the evaporation was sufficient in some years to maintain the lake at a level is very likely the case, but the loss from this cause would be overcome in heavy rainy seasons by the larger accumulation of incoming waters, and the lake would increase. The rainy seasons are extremely different in different years; hence a few successive wet years would cause an unusual rising of the lake waters, such as seemed to have occurred just before our arrival. I am convinced that the lake never, or at any rate for very many years, was at such a height as just before that time. But this is quite apart from any geological evidence of the different state of things in remote ages.

I have been understood to connect the changes of the water level of Tanganyika with earthquake movements. This I did not intend to do, but merely to admit the possibility of such a theory, and the probability that the bed of the lake is in reality a vast chasm caused by volcanic or earthquake movement, by calling attention to the fact that such movement is not uncommon even now.

Some twenty years ago, the Arabs informed me that an extraordinary disturbance of the lake waters occurred, a long line of broken water being seen bubbling and reeking with steam. The next morning all was tranquil, but the shore was strewed with fragments of a substance resembling bitumen, a specimen of which I have deposited with your Society. The first severe shock of earthquake I felt myself at Ujiji was at 9 P.M. on the 10th of August, 1880, which shook the house considerably. There had been two or three slight shocks at the same time in the previous year, but on this occasion the succeeding vibrations lasted for two or three months longer at intervals. There seemed to be a line of vibration through N.N.W. to S.S.E., and I observed a crack in the earth right through the town of Ujiji, extending for two or three miles in broken intervals in this direction. Captain Carter, of the Belgian expedition, also noticed a shock of earthquake at about this period in Southern Unyamwesi, and Mr. Thomson, of the Royal Geographical Society’s expedition, reports a shock at Kapufi’s, on the Lofu river, on April 12th, about 4 P.M.

Although of such large extent, and of such variety of aspect, there is a general sameness in the Tanganyika scenery; the whole basin forms in fact a vast chasm enclosed within mountain ranges or cliffs, terminating in elevated plateaux, a few lower lands intervening, natural gaps in the ranges, banks and deltas formed by eroding torrents, and in a few localities, such as at Ujiji and elsewhere, a strip of shelving beach in an east and west direction breaks the general north and south line of the lake. North of Ujiji the surrounding mountains approach the lake shore with but a small interval of low undulating hills, and have the appearance of meeting some distance north of the lake, as described by Captain Speke.

The extreme north end, however, is low alluvial land, with banks of reed and papyrus; following the general rule on the lake, which is, that bordering a shore trending east and west, an expanse of shallow water and a low beach are usually found, as though the shore had been washed down gradually by the waves. In some places, however, this is a bringing down and depositing of matters by rivers. The peninsula of Obwari is simply a long ridge ascending steeply from the lake on all sides.

I found the southern half of the Burton Gulf to be very shallow, obtaining, on sounding, only four or five fathoms of water right across it.

The isthmus of Ukaramba is formed of low hills, and behind Ubwari there is a considerable expanse of lower land between the lake and the mountains, which again approach the shore at Goma. The lofty and level horizon of the Goma hills is one of the sights of the lake. About half the year it is visible from Ujiji, on a clear day, though 40 miles distant, and the streams, descending to the lake down these lofty hillsides, may be plainly seen like silver threads. The paths to the villages, which are placed on the ridges and peaks of these hills, are in some places mere flights of steps. Though molested by several of the lake tribes, the Wagoma are a spirited and industrious race, and have grand resources further inland in a rich ivory country, of which little is yet known.

The country of Uguha, with its bay of islands, its Lukuga, and its Plymouth Rock Mission Station, forms a decided gap in the rim of the lake basin; as such it has formed hitherto the natural gateway to the regions beyond, for those who have penetrated these regions, and as such is a position of much importance both to missionaries and travellers.

Moving south along this west coast, the mountains approach the lake again gradually till the aspect of the steep shores of Goma is repeated in the rich and populous districts of Marungu and Itawa. Another gap at the Cameron bays, and we approach the loftiest barriers of the lake at the south end.

From the Lofu river round by capes Kalambwe and Pambete to the of Kituta, the glorious undercliff of the Isle of Wight is reproduced on a gigantic scale and with tropical vegetation. The airy but still luxuriant downs above afford some splendid and healthy localities amongst which the London Missionary Society are about to select a site for another station, at a point which will be the Tanganyika terminus of Mr. Stevenson’s road between the two lakes.

The entrance to the Lofu river is itself worthy of separate description. It is in the southern corner of the bay formed by the northern coast of Ulungu and the south-east corner of Itawa. With the wind east, or anywhere from east to north, there is a very nasty chop on a bar considerably outside of what would ordinarily be considered the actual mouth of the river. The embouchure itself is not visible until one comes close upon it; then, turning sharp round to the southward, a beautiful gap in the coast-line opens to view a broad and deep entrance. Where there are sheltered points in the river banks, there the long water-grass and papyrus accumulate in thick masses of very bright green, which are so fresh and flourishing and clear of débris as to add considerably to the beauty of the scene instead of the contrary, which is more generally the case on the lake shores. Steep verdant slopes rise up on every side, broken by gullies choked with dense vegetation, and conducting smaller streams into the general outlet.

There is no expanse of river to be seen here. Sailing into the entrance, one appears to be only running up into an inlet with large masses water-grass at its head and hills beyond; but as we advance, the zigzag reaches of the river disclose in succession vista after vista, all of similar aspect, until, turning again westward, a vast gap or basin presents itself, forming one of the most beautiful sights I have yet beheld on Lake Tanganyika. A long winding lake, from which ascend, with more or less intervening lowlands, immense hills, with for the most part clear straight sky-lines, showing the edges of the table-lands above. On the southern side, a long and gentle rise from the water-edge to the steeper hillside is covered with villages and extensive gardens. Here one may walk for miles through field after field of waving corn and rice. Westward, the valley narrows towards the more confined space of the incoming waters, but the outlet, where we had now just arrived, is quite hidden at a short distance. The whole thing is on so extensive a scale that I could not on the spot realise the sense of confinement which the description may seem to indicate. But we were to be much disappointed ; each zigzag hitherto had in due course permitted that progress which at first sight it seemed to deny; now, with the view all open and promising, we were brought to a stand behind a dense mass of floating vegetation, which proved to us quite impassable, and here we were compelled to moor the boat. On a closer inspection of the barrier I was convinced that I could cut a channel for the entrance of a vessel in two or three days with a gang of ten or twelve men with tools: a channel which would be finally thoroughly cleared by the force of the water when it was once opened. The river now flows clear and deep beneath. During my second visit, a good-sized boat, belonging to a party or Wajiji, was dragged over the floating vegetation by main force. This I tried on my first visit, but had not men enough for any great effort.

The country of Fipa in continuation presents a lofty but less perpendicular front to the lake, the land being broken into tree-clothed hills and ridges, gradually rising to the great inland heights, an aspect continued as far as the plain of Musamwira. Then the Kawendi Mountains and the lofty peaks of Cape Kungwe frown upon the lake in sublime grandeur, broken only by immense and beautiful chines, through which descend the watercourses from the heights, tumbling down in refreshing cascades and waterfalls. Further north, the mountains, more or less broken, again recede, leaving the eastern gap in the rim of the lake basin in which Ujiji is situated.

The map of the lake, which I have pleasure in submitting to the Society, is the result of my own survey based upon latitudes by meridian altitudes of stars north and south, and compass bearings with an error of compass allowed by my own observations of 11° -west at Ujiji, increasing gradually to 14° west at the south end of the lake: most of the principal points giving the general outline being laid down from bearings by azimuth compass on shore, all the detail filled in by the boat’s compass. The coast of Ulungu was surveyed with special care. The exceptions to a full survey of every bend in the coast at the south end are the portions from Pambete to the Lofu, and from Musi to Cape Kipimbwe.

The weather was frequently unfavourable for astronomical observations, but still many good latitudes were obtained. My boat’s compass was a large one, fitted in a proper binnacle, and frequent comparison with a compass on shore proved it to be accurate. The names of various places were obtained by careful inquiry of natives on the spot. I had no Ujiji pilot with me to volunteer uncertain information. In the progress of my work I was unable to take extensive soundings, but I have frequently found no bottom with the 168 fathoms of line I carried with me.

Natives.—In describing the natives on the shores of Lake Tanganyika, I have to deal with ten distinct tribes, with their separate national peculiarities and customs, all of which I cannot here enter upon. That these tribes are what we commonly term savages I cannot deny, but I say that there are manifestations of civilisation amongst these people which we should do well to recognise. We see this especially in the advance they have made in the utilisation of the produce of their country. They work their own iron and copper extensively, producing a great variety of weapons and articles both of utility and ornament. Salt is carefully prepared in the localities producing it, and distributed there-from as an article of barter all over the lake. Palm oil is largely prepared in Ujiji and Urundi, and distributed in the same way; in localities producing china clay and other valuable materials, there are large pottery works. One of the islands of Uguha and a place in Uuira are famous in this respect. Rua and Manyuema produce artistic iron work, and the famous grass or palm-fibre cloth. The dairy farms of Uhha send well-known packages of butter, and the poorer districts of the lake put up the parcels of dried fish which are sent far and wide throughout the country. This fishing industry is a very extensive one. The Warundi have small catamarans, made of four or five trunks of the pith tree strung together, from which they angle for medium-sized fish. But the more extensive work goes on at night in little hollowed-out log canoes, upwards of 200 of which I have counted at one time; each canoe with its fire to attract, the tiny fish, which are caught in large hand-nets. The seine is also used in some parts of the lake, and for the larger fish immense wicker traps are sunk to the bottom. Cotton cloth is also made at several places, and the various woods and barks are utilised largely for particular purposes—one kind for canoes, another for spear shafts, a third for mortars, a fourth for pestles, &c.

The division of labour thus indicated is evidence that amongst these tribes there is a  wholesome system of co-operation, which. is the beginning of better things.

Still, amidst all this, they have been for years isolated from the outer world; and, remembering this, I consider the small advance they have thus made to be most remarkable. A comparison of these with the poor degraded people of the coast regions shows a wide difference. Most of these interior tribes, for instance, live in well organised villages, in which considerable social order is maintained.

The Central African natives are in the iron age, and it is believed that no stone implements have been as yet discovered by any traveller. I have brought two pieces of stone, which it remains for those more skilled than myself in such matters to prove whether they are stone implements or not. They were given to me by Mr. Hutley, who describes them as being found from time to time by the natives, particularly in shallow parts of the lake, but sometimes on shore. They seem to be quite ignorant of the way in which they have been produced, but regard them with great reverence as representatives or messengers from their deceased ancestors, storing them carefully away in little huts or baskets, carefully secured from damage. The only use I can suggest for these stones is that of weights on sticks used in cultivation, as employed by the Hottentots, but the natives have no knowledge of their former use.

I have brought home specimens of arms, pottery, basket-work, cotton, | bark, and palm-fibre cloths, as well as samples of the lake water, the water of the hot springs of Uguha, palm oil, mpufu oil, cotton, tobacco, china clay, and the salt of Uvinsa and Ugogo, which may be seen at the London Missionary Society’s museum.

Climate, Products. The lake is subject to frequent storms, especially from south, south-east, and south-west, lasting sometimes for two or three days, and leaving a heavy swell, which proves a great hindrance to navigation. At the changes of monsoon, violent squalls from the north and north-west sweep over the lake, making canoe work dangerous, and raising at times a terrible cross sea.

During this unsettled weather immense masses of rain-clouds hang about the hill-tops surrounding the lake; waterspouts are frequent at these times, and my boat was completely turned over on the shore by a whirlwind which swept over Ujiji from the westward. After having been round the world two or three times, I have never witnessed such wondrous cloud scenery and majestic effects of thunder and lightning as on Tanganyika. But a small proportion of rain, however, is discharged upon the surface of the lake, the clouds being tapped by the surrounding hills, down which the resulting torrents pour into the lake.

The plants cultivated for food on the lake shore are rice, manioc (Jatropha), Kaffir corn (Holcus sorghum), two kinds of ground nuts, the oil of which is excellent, maize, uleysi (Eleusine corocana), pumpkin, sweet potatoes, and sugar cane, while the castor oil, tamarind, cotton, tomato, and cucumber grow wild around nearly every village.

The oil-palm is met with both at Ujiji, Urundi, and at the south end of the lake, the Raphia in several luxuriant localities, the Borassus largely on the margin of the Malagarasi river, the screw-palm in Uguha, and a single coco-nut-tree flourishes in the garden of an Arab at Ujiji.

Amongst the useful timber trees may be specially noticed the gigantic moule, out of which the canoes are hewn, and the Mininga or African teak, lignum-vitae,  ebony; a variety of woods useful for smaller purposes are also to be found, and are worked by the natives.

Extensive tracts of country on the lake shore are still freely roamed over by the larger African animals: two distinct kinds of crocodile were seen. Immense flocks of water-fowl abound in the river mouths and pools, amongst which are noticeable the sacred and the black ibis, three kingfishers  (a large dull-coloured bird, a black and white speckled species, and a tiny but most beautiful bird with a prevailing colour of peacock blue). Stanley’s water hyenas turned out to be otters, which are frequently seen in quiet creeks and bays. A collection of twenty-one species of shells from the lake have been described by M. Smith in the ‘Proceedings’ of the Zoological Society, nine of them as entirely new. The tsetse fly abounds on the lake shores from Ujiji round the south end and so up the west coast as far as Ubwari.

Visit to Mtowa.—The boat Calabash, in which my various voyages on the lake were made, was formerly used by an Arab to convey slaves and across the lake;  I myself made the sails and rigged her up somewhat in English fashion. One of my first voyages, after a trip had proved the seaworthiness of my boat, was across to Uguha, first visiting the interesting islands of Kabesa and Kasenge. The former is an oval, conical hill, the top of which is 250 feet above the lake, covered with large, rough broken pieces of granite, the interstices filled with coarse grass and bushes, and the summit crowned with a miniature forest of trees, tangled in a mass of creepers.

After getting bearings here, I sailed round to the north end of where I expected to find a depot or settlement, but not vestige of such is to be found. The landward side of all these islands has grass, water-cane, &c.; while the weather sides are mostly bare, being exposed to the south and south-east winds. There are two small villages upon the island, one having about ten and the other about twelve houses. Kasenge is conspicuous only because it is different from all the other islands, having a smooth, grass-covered mound at its northern extremity, while the others are mostly rugged and tree-covered.

On the 1st of May I landed at Mtowa, on the mainland. Near the landing places a few miserable settlements of Wangwana and people belonging to Arab traders by no means add to the beauty of the scene. The native village, half a mile distant, shows better signs of life and activity. Here I visited the chief, Kassanga, jun., whose acquaintance I had previously made in Ujiji. He received me very good-naturedly, sald he was glad to see me, and on my telling him I  wanted to look at his country a little, he said it was open to me and I could go where I liked. When I returned to the boat he came on board, and was much pleased with some of the white man’s wonderful things, none of which, however, pleased him so much as the production of fire from a match.

In the afternoon, I climbed the lofty peak of Cape Kahangwa. Our course led us over smooth, rounded hills, covered with thick, long grass, up and through which we pushed our way with great labour. Between each hill was a deep ravine, generally containing a pleasant little running stream  each one a perfect strip of tropical scenery. After a steep climb the peak itself was reached, and a splendid view rewarded me as I took a round of bearings from Goma and across to Cape Kungwe on the other side of the lake, and to the hills of Murungu in the south. At our feet, and between us and the river Lukuga, lay the great plain on which Ruanda, the capital of Uguha, is situated. These hills are of clay-slate, and slaty sandstone, with loose quartz rich in mica. On our return we struck a path  which led us back to Mtowa, along ridges, avoiding almost entirely the deep ravines which had so wearied us.  As I passed through Kassanga’s village on my return, he came out accompanied by his wife, both in fall evening costume, the most striking feature of which is in both cases the elaborate head-dress, so distinctive of the people of Uguha. Kassanga’s wife, one of five or six, was adorned with large spiral wire bracelets, and anklets and necklaces of shells.

The next day I walked over to Ruanda, to visit Kassanga, sen., who is the chief of the whole country. Passing Kahangwa, we skirted by a devious path several of those wonderful rounded hills, with ravines deeper and more romantic than ever;. little tropical streamlets, deep in rocky beds, with numerous little cascades over which the water pours clear as crystal. Finally descending rapidly to the plain, on the other side of which is Ruanda, we entered upon a flat expanse of black mud cracking in the sun, and overgrown with rank grass and weeds, but with very few trees; in the rains it must be in places a terrible morass. Ruanda itself is quite a wonder in these parts, and is conspicuous on this plain by a sprinkling of the Bombax or cotton-tree in and about it. It consists of at least 400 houses, which, for the most part, are built so regularly as to form long streets, giving an unusual appearance of tidiness to the place. Considerable spaces are kept clear and swept, and here and there rudely carved posts with double-faced human heads serve to remind the people of reverence due to their departed ancestors—their guardian spirits. The Uguha houses are built with a square frame and all the upright ends gathered together in a point at the top; but the thatch is put on so thickly that when finished they present a perfectly round beehive shape, with a bunch on the top where the uppermost thatching is securely fastened together.

I was pleased to observe in active operation numerous industries of a superior kind and on a larger scale than I had seen anywhere else on the lake shores: pottery, matting, and baskets of many kinds, wooden bowls and dishes, and wooden drums, were the chief articles manufactured. There were also blacksmiths and coppersmiths, but I think their neighbours, the Warua, supply them chiefly in metal wares. The people appeared cheerful, healthy, and well-behaved. I found the great Kassanga himself was absent. The people trooped together in large numbers to get a sight of the white man, but there was no impertinence or illfeeling, only what appeared to be a pleased curiosity. I walked on to an Arab camp or settlement—an assembly of small grass houses in which the Arabs live, and smaller huts for their slaves and porters. Here they assemble and arrange their caravans before proceeding westward.

The Lukuga Outlet.—I got back to Mtowa just before sundown, and had a long consultation with Kassanga, jun., about the Lukuga river. He told me I was quite welcome to go there, but it was a dangerous place, and some Arabs’ boats had come to grief in the river. He seriously warned me not to attempt to reach the Lukuga by land, and refused to send two or three of his men with me. I told him I should start on the morrow. Unfavourable winds, however, in the morning prevented my doing so, a state of things to which I was easily reconciled when I was informed that Kassanga, sen., was in a village close by, and invited the white man to go and see him. I accordingly went to a small village half-an-hour’s walk distant in a public place, in which I found quite an assemblage of richly dressed chiefs and warriors, most of them with huge plumes of brightly coloured feathers on their heads. They were evidently awaiting my arrival when I drew near and sat down in their midst. Kassanga’s own big house was close by, and the great man being informed of my arrival, shortly afterwards made his appearance. He is an old man, but bears his age well, being sleek and clean, and of cheerful countenance. His manner was somewhat embarrassed, but very friendly; he was dressed very much plainer than most of his chiefs, with a plain calico loin cloth, a white turban, a thick bunch of scarlet feathers on the top of his head in front, whereas his inferiors all wore their feathers on the top behind.

His sole ornament was a necklace of large shells, the very largest I have seen.

A friendly conversation ensued in which I endeavoured to make him understand our purpose in coming into Africa, and he replied that the country was open, I could go wherever I liked. At the conclusion he retired into his hut and sent out one of the chiefs with a load of maizemeal very neatly fastened up in a leaf package all ready for transport. This was a formal hospitable welcome to his country.

Some six months afterwards I had the honour of escorting two of my colleagues to this place, and Kassanga’s friendship ever since has been proved genuine and lasting. Mr. Griffith, who is in charge of this station, has, up to the last mail, given us most promising accounts of the progress of the Mission.

I started the next afternoon and got well out to windward towards Cape Kungwe, in order to avoid the terrible rocks on the northern side of Cape Kahangwa, a most dangerous shore during the south-east winds which prevail here. A strong breeze coming on from the south, I ran in towards the Lukuga entrance. It was rough work with my inexperienced men, especially this running down upon an almost unknown shore in the hope that I should find a harbour. I was able to recognise the coast as I went along in the immediate neighbourhood of the Lukuga from Captain Cameron’s map, which has proved in many of its local details to be most valuable and accurate. I ran right in the Lukuga about 5.30 p.m., finding from three to five fathoms at the entrance. As the entrance narrowed we found ourselves rapidly swept in. In the centre of the swift current were numerous eddies, or calm places in which the boat seemed to halt for a moment before being swept on faster than ever. My men were panic-stricken, and it was with extreme difficulty I could get the little work done that I required from them. The people of Kawe Niangwe’s village ran out in alarm at seeing a large boat being swept, as they thought, to utter destruction; but we had no time to attend to their cries, and, notwithstanding the utmost exertion, we were drawn at least one mile down the river before I could bring the boat to the bank and make her fast.

I at once visited the chief Kawe Niangwe at his village. I found him to be a tall, lively, cheerful-looking man of considerable intelligence, without any of that gloomy mystery so frequently a hindrance to intercourse with these chiefs. He made and answered questions in a straightforward way, and did not beg. He at once acquiesced in my request for a guide for the Lukuga, producing a sharp-looking fellow of some social rank named Mtweta My-y-ya. With this man I started on Saturday morning to explore the river, which of necessity had to be done in a small native canoe, and not in my own more cumbersome boat. Mtweta My-y-ya brought with him three little lads and a large pot of pombe, nor would he provide any other food though he knew my intention was to stop away all night; my man Faragella who accompanied us also neglected to provide food, not withstanding my protestations; they both anticipated they would tire me and return the same evening, but they were disappointed. We descended the river to Stanley’s farthest, the rapids beyond being dangerous for our canoe. Here Mtweta My-y-ya thought I should give in, but landing at once, I directed them to prepare for the march, which they all did unwillingly. However, at last, finding I was determined, they moored the canoe, and hid the paddles and the precious pombe in the grass, doubtless expecting to return in the afternoon.

Going about half a mile, we passed the river Rubamba. Mtweta My-y-ya told me that Stanley did not pass here.

I had several good views of the river along the road, and soon saw that the rapids extended only for a distance of half a mile, after which the river widened as before, gently winding.

About two miles and a half on my right I crossed the river Msengela, two miles beyond that passed an empty village, and then the river Kawindi. Soon after this the three lads put their loads down and declared they would go no further. Mtweta My-y-ya doubtless thought this would stop me, but I was determined to ascend the Kiyanja ridge to see the river and to get observations for latitude, so I shouldered one of the loads, and Mtweta My-y-ya was manly enough when I put it to him in that way not to break his agreement, and so he, Faragella, and myself proceeded alone, Mtweta My-y-ya shortly afterwards taking my load in addition to his own. We were now going along a road which he said led to a fisherman’s camp, but to get to the ridge we must leave this road and strike across country.

This Mtweta My-y-ya hesitated to do, pleading thorns and wild beasts, and various difficulties, and hoping that I might give in. But late in the afternoon we left the road and struck straight across for the Kiyanja. We had already crossed the river Luamuwa; by this valley we crossed it again—a most refreshing little stream—and, struggling through the jungle, reached the base of the Kiyanja ridge.

The ascent was very, very steep—a climb, in fact, necessitating frequent rests; but each halt brought us to a more extensive and glorious outlook than the last. At about 800 feet I selected a camping place, and the men made me a little hut and collected firewood. I mounted afterwards about 300 feet higher, from which elevation I had a bird’s eye view of the Lukuga river flowing far away to the westward. From this place I got bearings, and at night the latitude 5° 50’, which, with the latitude at Kawe Niangwe’s village, 5° 52’ 45″, will serve as a basis for a sketch of this part of the river. It would have served the men right to let them hunger, for it was all their own fault; I had told them to bring food. Mtweta wandered about and picked up a few seeds, which he chewed, but they looked so miserable that I gave them a small allowance from my own food. The hillside is covered with the same quartz and mica with which the sands of the little river below sparkle. The whole view from this position is very fine and extensive.

Beyond lay the distant lake itself, bounded by the lofty peaks of Kungwe; and the winding reaches of the Lukuga lay at our feet as on a plain, a clearly defined and swift river, which, sweeping round the foot of this ridge, is lost to view among the distant hills of Urua. The next morning we tramped back to where we had left the canoe, and reached my boat the same evening.

Mr. Stanley’s prediction has been fulfilled: recent news has come that the strength of the Lukuga current is slackened, and, provided with a solid rocky sill, it will probably become the permanent waste-pipe of the lake, maintaining its waters at a pretty constant level.

River Malagarasi.—The river Malagarasi, as one of the largest streams flowing into the lake and situated near Ujiji, naturally attracted my attention. I had to go to its entrance on several occasions to cut timber, to visit the young chief Mtongoro, in order gradually to gain the confidence of the wild and wandering tribes of Kawendi, and twice to ferry parties across the river.

In August 1879, I pulled up the river to explore. The entrance proper is through mazes of papyrus and pith-tree; after one mile, the river narrows between distinct forest-clad banks, in many places completely covered with a thick garment of creepers, then widening out again into a large expanse, with plains on the north and low hills on the south, and quantities of the Borassus palm.

This place is the haunt of immense numbers of hippopotami and crocodiles, and herds of buffalo, baboons, and other animals. Narrowing again between hills the current became swifter and the river more confined as we turned into the north-easterly reaches. At a distance of 53 miles from the lake my progress was stopped by a series of rapids formed by the stream flowing down over large pebbles and boulders.

Recent traces of the elephant and buffalo were seen, and the lion was heard at night. I estimated the dimensions of the river, just below the rapids where it is clearly defined between distinct banks, as follows: width 500 feet, average depth five feet; giving a sectional area of 2500 feet, and flowing at the rate of 4½ knots per hour.

Two months later I again entered the river, and there was then so little water that I could only get one mile beyond the entrance. Before the rains of 1880, I again visited it; the surface of the lake was then of course much lower; I was unable even to enter the barrier of vegetation at the mouth, through which the water was slowly flowing in small quantities. The flood caused by the rains would doubtless excavate the bed deeper, but I think it will be some years before the river 1s able to be again entered as I had done.

Voyage to the Southern end of the Lake.—In September 1879, we were reinforced at Ujiji by Messrs. Southon and Griffith, and it was determined to occupy the two stations of Urambo and Plymouth Rock. In the spring of 1880 I found opportunity at last to make a voyage round the south end of the lake.

I started from Ujiji on the evening of the 17th of March with a crew of six Wajiji, two Zanzibar men, and my two boys Sambo and Sievedi. Immediately before leaving I was surprised by the arrival of a party of Mr. Thomson’s men bringing the startling news that that gentleman had returned to Mtowa with a total loss of outfit. I hurriedly got together a small quantity of wearing apparel and cloth for his use, which I took with me. Arriving at Cape Kabogo next morning, and Kanala Island at 4 p.m. the next day, the wind being very light, I found all well at Mtowa, and that the alarm about Mr. Thomson was much exaggerated. The next day, embarking Mr. Thomson and his men, I proceeded on the voyage, crossing to Cape Kungwe, coasting the highlands south of that cape, exploring the pretty inlet at the mouth of the Calabash river, running past the pirate’s island of Kabogo with a splendid fair breeze at night, and arriving at the station of the African International Association in Musamwira on the evening of the 26th.

Captain Carter, of the elephant expedition, happened to be camped near, the site of the stone house which was then being built, and in true sailor-like fashion showed lights and shouted directions for the best approach. After troublesome navigation for a quarter of a mile through 18 inches of water, with the men overboard pushing the boat, I moored close to the hill. Here we were entertained most hospitably by Captain Carter at his camp, and by Messrs. Cambier and Popelin at the village of Karema; had a ride upon Carter’s elephant, and finally started again on our voyage on the evening of the 29th of March.

I was impressed very favourably with the accounts, and with what I saw, of the elephant work. The surviving animal was one which for many years in India had done no work, and Carter was about to leave Karema for the coast to receive some more elephants from India with which he was to start the work of catching and taming the African ones. Why this work has been abandoned I cannot tell. It has been proved that waggons can be got through, but we cannot use bullock wageons on account of the tsetse. I think it has been proved that elephants can be got through, but that they would not answer because of the immense labour and the number of men required to load and unload them daily, and because of the great weight concentrated on four points on shaky ground. By using elephant waggons both difficulties would be done away with, and both successes usefully combined.

The work of the African International Association at Karema appeared to be proceeding surely though slowly. A stone house of considerable size was being erected upon an elevation close to the lake shore under the care of Captain Cambier, who I must say appeared to me to be carrying out the excellent instructions laid down for the agents of this Association in a most efficient way. The chief result, up to this time, of his presence in that neighbourhood was the evidently increasing prosperity of the natives there. I had visited this place some months before and looked upon it as one of the poorest and most miserable of native settlements on the lake shore. The difference I now observed was remarkable; the people were well clothed, and I doubt if they could easily be prevailed upon voluntarily to part with the presence of the white men in their midst.

A mutual good understanding has always existed upon the lake between ourselves and the gentlemen of this Association, and I understand we are indebted to Captain Cambier’s careful observations for the most reliable longitude of a position on the lake shores.

I deeply regret the untimely death of Captain Carter, in whom the work of exploration in Africa has lost one of its finest and most efficient men. Wherever he has passed in the African interior I believe an honest Englishman can pass again, which is saying a great deal, and he was always ready to share his last resources with any one.

Proceeding on our voyage we coasted round the verdant neighbourhood called by Cameron Massi Kambi, rounded capes Kapendi and Mpimbwe, visiting the few villages there, passed Cape Chakuola and entered the Bay of Kirando on the evening of April 1st. Here we found several villages of considerable size, and immense farms with large rice fields. The Makomomo Islands serve to enclose an excellent harbour in this bay which at first sight would appear to afford a fine situation for a station, but in the rains I find there will be a great expanse of marsh. On the southern side, however, which would more frequently be the weather side, the rising ground affords a better site. Much more cultivation is observed as we proceed south and are fairly entered up the coast of Fipa. This is another of the districts of country ruled over by a chief of importance; his name is Kapufi. At the island of Kirui I first made the friendly acquaintance of the Fipa people, a man volunteering to ~come on board at night to pilot us into a harbour.

I must rapidly pass on south without noticing all the various bays and populous villages of Fipa.

We stopped on Sunday at Msamba Island, evidently a well-to-do place; a half-caste spy here visited us and, as events proved, carried no favourable account of us to the mainland. Visiting the large village of Wampembe we passed on to Pulungu Island, where we were delayed a whole day by the swell that followed the south-west gale, and was a great hindrance to our progress. Here, in the afternoon, we suddenly discovered ourselves surrounded by a force of armed men in the little creek in which we were moored; sent over, as they afterwards acknowledged, in consequence of evil reports of us made by some traders to the chief Kapufi. They were very soon assured, however, by our quiet demeanour, an examination of the boat, and the statements of my Wajiji crew, that there was no harm in the white man, and eventually left for the mainland as a deputation to carry a good report of us to their chief.

At Polungu Island we rested and slept, starting again at daylight next morning, and now making a closer and more careful survey of the south end. Passing three little steep capes, forming together one broad one, the shore runs well in east to a river on which is situated, I believe, the village Utunduu, described by the Wafipa as the border village; then past the island and peninsula of Micongorlo, where a beautiful little land-locked harbour is surrounded by several villages and extensive farms. I walked across the Micongorlo Peninsula, and saw the Amalesa Islands adjacent. I observed several prosperous villages, and considerable cultivation. Leaving this place with a fine breeze, we passed along the Mpete Peninsula round into Liemba Harbour—a perfect lake-like, land-locked harbour. I could not make out that the natives had any name for the harbour itself, though I got names for all sides and villages round. Of Liemba they knew nothing, except that it was the Kilungu word for lake. I believe no one else has named this place; I would therefore suggest that it retain the name of Liemba Harbour—which, if it means “lake-like harbour,” is by no means inappropriately applied to it; the name Liemba was apparently first given to this part of Tanganyika by Dr. Livingstone. Liemba Harbour is roughly circular in form. At its head is a tiny peninsula, Ikyoni, behind which I moored the boat. It is like a little world in itself, the home of a herd of hippopotami, and very numerous water-fowl and other birds. I saw traces of numbers of buffalo in the neighbourhood, and other large game. I also observed wild grapes in a strong shrub-like form. On the mainland side the shores ascend steeply from the lake to the lofty plateau above. At night rain came on, and continued without ceasing.

Next morning, moving across to the Kalambo side, we made friends with the natives there.

I found that the chief of the district was a woman —“Sultani Mwema’’—that is, “the good chief,” and no other name could I get. This princess lives in the village of Katete, about 2000 feet above the lake. As it was described to be near, I determined to pay the lady a visit. A terribly steep walk through an interminable forest of tall straight trees, the path very often almost like a flight of steps, took me up to the heights above; but, as the afternoon was drawing to a close, I put off my visit to the next day, and returned to the boat. Early next morning I was told that Sultani Mwema was coming in person to meet me. She appeared about 10 o’clock, with a numerous train of ladies-in waiting. I showed her everything I had in the boat, which she in turn pointed out and explained and criticised to her women. This princess had a self-confident manner, quite different from the ordinary look of the women.

She is probably about forty years of age. Her husband was with her—“not the chief,” I was told, but “the chief’s husband.” They appeared much pleased with what they saw, and after I had explained the reasons for our visiting her country, I really think the “good princess ” really meant it when she said she should be very pleased to give a place for houses and gardens if white men would come and live as friends in her district. I gave the sultana a suitable present of cloth and beads, and a necklace to each of her women. She gave me some fowls in return, and we parted with the understanding that when I brought my brethren a place should be given them in which to live. As the princess retired, I observed that, though attired in coloured trade cloth, she still wore the national female costume, which I shall describe further on. The natives assured me that Sultani Mwema is the sister of Tafuna, who they say is the chief of all Ulungu; but the word “sister” may only mean “friend,” “ally,” or “equal in rank.” “Mazombe,” which appears on some maps, is either the name of the district just inside and south of this, or it simply means “on the heights”; there is no village of that name.

Leaving Liemba Harbour, I passed several small rock capes, and Luasi, on the river of that name, with its wall-like cliffs, then the great bluff cape Yamini, with its jagged and weather-worn perpendicular cliffs, after which the hills recede, leaving a small space of lowland about the village Mufinga, a small place of eleven huts, where we stopped for the night.

Rounding the little peninsula of Kirongo, we passed some low rocky cliffs, a tract of thick forest, and small broken hills; beyond these, towards the Malwe river, lower land at the foot of the hills permits movement along the shore, and the scenery wears a general dry, though picturesque aspect, the surface consisting of red earth, quartz rock, and hard sandstone set off with groups of Borassus palms.

The entrance to Malwe river—itself a mere torrent—is quite a gap, forming behind a sandy cape quite a snug little harbour; a delta of low land is closed in by precipitous hills, the delta itself choked up with a dense growth of palms and grasses, amongst which, in a clearing of gardens, is the stockaded village of Malwe. Although evidently stockaded for defence, there is no ditch, as in the countries north. The people, apparently poor, make up for more valuable ornaments by wearing sambo of yellow grass, which much resembles copper when seen from a distance. A strong south-west wind detained me here till late in the afternoon, when it shifted to the north-west, and with a fresh breeze I stood out and laid along to the Kowa river, which I reached in the evening. With a following sea, I could not venture to enter the river mouth, so went up into a corner on a soft bed of mud. Rain fell during the night, preventing observations. I started again at daylight, rounding Cape Nyanzowe, after which the highlands approached closer to shore again, the drainage gaps becoming deep cuttings. Kalambo river is In one of these; it forms an extensive but shallow boat-harbour, much choked with weeds. Precipitous mountains rise abruptly from a valley a quarter to three-quarters of a mile across, rising gradually and narrowing at once till it seems lost in a narrow cleft between precipices of 1000 feet, but again opening shows two other ravines converging to this point, and each bringing down a stream which unite to form a broad and rushing torrent, that, roaring over huge boulders, washes the precipice on the south side with a noise resounding throughout the valley.

Jagged, discoloured patches of bare rock stand out among the trees with which the hillsides are elsewhere covered, except where a few clearings with waving corn testify to some perseverance on the part of the natives; for even these clearings can only be reached by a steep climb. Two small clearings occupy the level ground by the river mouth, and others are situated on natural landings at intervals on the great staircase at the head of the valley leading up into the interior. I walked up to one of these, a small village called Mukipwa, the chief of which is-named Mpuliamba, who told me he had seen Mr. Thomson the day before, at Pongorlo, on the Unyanyembe route. The people seemed somewhat listless at first, but on finding we wanted to buy food they soon trooped down to the boat with various produce, and a friendly intercourse was opened. These were the last villages I found on the eastern shore. The steeper hills now retired somewhat from the shore, leaving a space of small broken hills and little stony capes.

The district of Kituta was reached on the 21st April, at the river mouth which Stanley terms the extreme south end of the lake, the extreme south however is really at Pambete. I cannot improve on Stanley’s description of the dense dark grove of trees at this river mouth, which forms a very conspicuous mark from a distance. A few fishermen approached from the Lonzua river and invited me to proceed there, which, indeed, was necessary if I would hold intercourse with the natives, there being no signs of habitations where I then was. I found a road, however, passing round the lake end which seemed tolerably well used. We moved on therefore to the Lonzua river, approaching the steep landing place through a wilderness of dead tree stumps and clumps of reeds. This river is a torrent, rushing down a steep and rocky declivity. On the top of the ridge are many scattered farms and small villages. A friendly native soon attached himself to me as guide and informant, and I also obtained a guide to go to Zombe’s on the morrow. At daylight, putting the boat aground in a safe place on the south shore, we started. Very near our camp we found a path running east and west, and then turning north along the lake shore; this is a branch of the caravan road from Liendwe to Unyanyembe; the other, and probably the principal, one passing through Isoko and Zombe’s. To go to Zombe’s we crossed this path, trending east, however, for some distance, and continually mounting upwards, first through tangled wood full of rocks, and then through more regular forest. In three hours I reached what l at first supposed to be the top at 2400 feet. The country here extends far and wide in bold undulations of rich forest lands; still no villages, but in the forest I came across a party of hunters. They had an immense net about half a mile in length and six feet high and with meshes from two to three inches square, kept in position by stakes and stays at intervals. It was placed in what I suppose was meant for a straight line, with watchers at about every 200 yards; this must be a work requiring a considerable amount of well-arranged partnership, the net being all in separate lengths of about 50 or 60 feet belonging to different men.

After leaving the hunting party I descended to the small river Muswira; half an hour further a small village of ten houses, and then a scattered series of isolated farmhouses, each surrounded with its little fortification, or boma. From one of these a man became our guide for a short distance, taking us to the outskirts of this farm district, and indicating to us the forest path we were again to follow. We now gradually rose again to about 2500 feet through the same fine forest land, crossing two little rivers with very cool water. The last of these streams we followed up for some time, where it runs through steep banks crowded with ferns and mosses and other damp-loving light green vegetation, with the gigantic moowali palms (Raphia) arching over the verdant tunnels, completing a scene refreshing in the extreme. These Raphia are splendid trees, many of the leaves being 40 feet long, and supplying the beautiful and strong fibre of which the well-known Manyuema cloth is made, and serving a variety of purposes of utility and ornament. The mid-ribs of the leaves form excellent rafters for small] houses, and are also used for frames of bedsteads and many other purposes. Crossing the stream we ascended to dry, bare, stony ground, and soon came again to scattered farms, which proved to be the outlying parts of Zombe’s neighbourhood, whose town I reached after a march of about 16 miles from the lake, at an elevation of 2300 feet above its shores. Coming from the lake I continued to feel even here that I was up aloft; each horizon seemed to be the edge beyond which one would at once descend to ordinary levels. I think this was due to the change of air as well as to the actual fact of having ascended from the lake.

Zombe’s is a large fortified town subdivided by other stockades into several compartments, so that in the village one is continually passing through gates. On the north side of the town is a stream descending into the Kalambo river, which I was told forms a natural barrier, and its dense margin of moowali palms and other tall trees of bright fresh verdure displays a pleasing background to the scene as approached from the west by the forest road. Extensive gardens dot the country, which on all sides is covered with a fresh bright growth—whether of forest trees or shrubs and grass. A small herd of well-favoured kine with barrel-like bodies, and the passing to and fro of the numerous people loaded with the produce of their gardens, made up a picture which I found very interesting and refreshing after my voyage, and seemed to speak of grand possibilities for the country in the future.

Having seated myself comfortably with my Wajiji round me, I sent a message to Zombe to say I had come to see him. The usual difficulties were thrown in my way, and it was not till next morning that I saw the chief, who then came to visit me. He is rather a large man, with the peculiar air of watchfulness I had noticed in Mirambo. He was clothed in a blue and grey cotton counterpane, ornaments of substantial copper sambo, and carried a neat axe—a sort of wand of office. He informed me that his river joins the Kalambo; that Pongorlo is three days’ march from there; that he thought the white men were good, and would give them a place to live in either at his town or between that and the lake. He said that the Watuta used to give him some trouble, but they had gone away now; and truly he seems to keep his people under command, though J observed that men, women, and children alike approached and saluted him without fear. He remembered the party passing with Livingstone’s dead body, and Mr. Stewart and Mr. Thomson had both visited him. After breakfast I walked outside, and found Zombe seated on a huge ash-heap just outside the town—a sort of quarterdeck place of observation, from whence he could see his cattle and all outcomers and ingoers, and whence he kept up an almost continuous clapping of hands in answer to the respectful salutes of his passing subjects.

Zombe’s village has about 120 houses, and besides the cattle already mentioned, some fine goats and sheep. I sent him some good coloured cloths and glass beads, and he thoroughly enjoyed the exhibition and description of every article I possessed of European manufacture.

In the afternoon I returned his visit. His own house has the river close behind it. His wife was a superior sort of woman, to whom I felt bound to make a little present. Zombe continued on the same friendly terms with me during my stay, and promised an escort in the morning, and he himself attended to wish me a most cordial farewell.

Returning to the shore at Kituta, I got careful observations for latitude, which I made to be 8° 46’ 30”, surveyed closely round the peninsula of Kapata, and rounded the island of Mtondwe, where I also got latitude and bearings. The south end of this island is low, and the north end bluff. Coasted with leading winds to Kasakalowa, stopping by the way at the villages of Kondo and Niumkorlo; the latter has a fine little harbour, at the north side of which is a prominent round hill on a peninsula. On Livingstone’s map this, and also the peninsula of Msenga in Itawa, are marked as islands, and from the distance at which he saw them they would doubtless appear so.

Kasakalowa is a village of about forty houses. There is a space of some extent here of lower hills and beach between the Kapata ridge and the south-west corner of the lake, and in this space are the villages of Kasakalowa and Pambete at the real south end of the lake, in lat. 8° 47° 30”. Just halting for rest and bearings, I then turned up the west coast. Here the mountains rise steeply from the lake shore, but still on the slopes there are numerous villages and farms; perpendicular cliffs of weather-stained rock stand out at great heights among the trees.

Leaving Mwangala in the evening, I pulled on, hoping to reach a gap I had seen in the mountains, which I supposed to be Cameron’s river Kiazu; but as we made slow headway against the swell, it was dark before I made out any available landing. The night proved extremely dark, and just after sunset, a slashing breeze springing up from the southward, I determined that as I could not survey, I would at any rate make a passage, and ran into the Lofu river before the morning. Here, securing the latitude and compass variation, my survey of Ulungu was completed. Both as regards the people and the country, I had been agreeably disappointed. I had expected to find a scattered and mixed people, but I found them to be a distinct tribe, with their own peculiar customs, dress, arms, and houses. The most characteristic article of dress is the goatskin garment worn by the women; the top part being unconfined, it hinges, as it were, at the waist, so that on sitting down it at once swings into its proper place as a mat or carpet; the lower end is scalloped in a set pattern.

The most common grain is the uleysi, cultivated in circular forest clearings, watched from huts raised on high poles. The nether millstones used by the Walungu are neatly imbedded in a plaster bench or table, with a receptacle for the meal.

Uganga, in its various forms of fetishes, miniature sacred huts, and mystical performances, flourishes in every small village. The tsetse fly was seen in all parts, even to within half a mile of Zombe’s village, the only place where cattle are kept. Cotton is cultivated largely, and cloth made as at Ujiji. The bow of the Walungu and Wafipa is peculiar, having two elbows in it, instead of being, as usual, the segment of a circle, and a tassel of long dark hair is attached. Bees are cultivated, and large fish-traps are anchored off the shore to entice the large and oily senga.

After visiting the chief Muriro, at Akalunga in Itawa, and the southern portion of Marungu, a strong south-west gale decided me to run north, calling once more at the station of the African International Association and at Plymouth Rock. I arrived at Ujiji on May 2nd, after a voyage of sixty-two days, costing in food, pay of men, presents to chiefs, &c., about 150 dollars. The employment of the Ujiji natives in this way was a grand success; by living with me in the boat all this time we had got thoroughly acquainted with each other, and these men did excellent service in speaking well of me, not only in the various countries visited, but also among their own people on our return.

Ujiji— It is difficult to think of Lake Tanganyika apart from Ujiji. Ujiji is a country situated upon the eastern shores of the lake, originally ruled over by a sultan or native head chief, but actually by some two or three leading men, called Mutwali, amongst the chiefs of the thirty or forty counties or districts into which the country is divided. I roughly estimate the country to contain about 700 to 800 square miles. The population is much larger than a hasty survey would indicate, the country people on the heights living in populous villages.

What is most frequently known as Ujiji, however, is the metropolis of that country, and it may be said of Tanganyika, a straggling town spreading over portions of two of those divisions, namely Ugoy and Kawele, and forming the headquarters in that neighbourhood of a colony of Arab slave and ivory traders, as well as a native mart frequented by representatives of all the tribes upon the lake shores. It is the terminus of what for years was the only safe and well-known route from the east coast to the lake, and an important station upon a line of traffic, geographically suited and by common consent adopted as convenient right across the continent, and is for all purposes of commerce and communication the centre of the rich district of the Tanganyika. This town of Ujiji is in S. lat. 4° 54′ 30”, and E. long. 30° (approx..). I resided at this place a little over two years. From it I made my various voyages on the lake. At Ujiji we lived out a character which so recommended itself to the native mind, that after we had been there a year they volunteered to give us a site for our station, and publicly recognised us as their friends in spite of all the opposition and slander of the Arabs.

At this place, in its very stronghold, we struck a deadly blow at the slave traffic of Central Africa, so that from the day of our arrival the public exposure of slaves for sale ceased, and was only carried on as admittedly contraband. By an apparent desire to settle at this place, we were permitted unmolested to spread out to other localities in the hope that, getting there, we should abandon Ujiji to its old unmolested iniquities; for, as in African travel there are times when it needs all the stimulus of a determination to cross the continent in order to complete one day’s march; so nothing short of aiming at a settlement in their very headquarters would have given us the prestige necessary to settle in any part of those regions, over which these Arab settlers undoubtedly have the power to oppose us.

No better locality could have been: chosen, not only from its never-to-be-forgotten associations, but from the fact that at Ujiji natives from all the lake countries assemble;

that news is to be obtained and communication kept up; and, moreover, that amongst the low-lying lands surrounding the lake (which must necessarily be the scene of pioneer work, before we can build permanent stations on healthy elevations) there are few, if any, positions healthier than Ujiji. It is situated on one of the few small stretches of east and west coast, a position which opens the neighbourhood to the healthy influences of the southerly winds. The house I resided in at Ujiji was in the highest part of the town, and subject to an almost-continual fresh breeze.

It has been unfortunate for the good name of Ujiji in this respect, however, that it has often been the scene of the illness and death so frequently the result of the long and trying journey from the coast. But a long residence there has never yet proved fatal. I think I may say that no traveller has come out of Central African work in better health than myself, and I resided at Ujiji longer than any European has yet done. My colleague Mr. Hutley comes next, and at the present moment he is the oldest of our residents in those regions. His recent illness followed his one year’s residence in another locality than Ujiji, and from whence another of our men is also returning disabled. Since leaving no fever, and the Royal Geographical Society’s traveller, Mr. Thomson, speaks most favourably also of the place.

It is interesting to note that whilst, in 1879, 29.78 inches of rain fell at Ujiji, there fell in London during the same year 30.13 inches, a difference of not half an inch. In 1878 nearly an inch more than that fell in London, and in the only two months recorded at Ujiji in that year the rain was also in excess of the corresponding period in 1879.

Of the rain of 1880 at Ujiji I have only records up to October, but, adding to that the average of the preceding two years for November and December, we have for 1880 27.34, a difference again from the London rainfall of that year, of just half an inch.

The hottest time of the year at Ujiji has been before and after the early rains in September and November, with a maximum in the house of 83°; the coldest in July, with a minimum, outside, of 58°; the ordinary temperature ‘in the house being 76° to 79°.

In both the years 1879 and 1880 the approach of the rains was faithfully indicated by the highest range between the wet and dry bulb thermometers, which occurred in both those years the day before the first rain.

Your Society has proved it possible for Englishmen to traverse these regions successfully and safely. The London Missionary Society has proved it possible for them to reside upon the lake shores in friendly relations with its natives, and in safe, if not friendly, relations with the Arab colonists; but amongst these I can point to many now whom I know would remain neutral, if not actually friendly, who, when we first arrived, were strong to oppose us.

I wish to bear public testimony to the fact that Mohammed Bogharib most certainly saved my life on one memorable occasion, and to remind you that this good old man did a like service for Dr. Livingstone. If on my return to Africa I could convey to Bogharib some testimony of the gratitude of our friends in England, I should be very pleased to do so.

Concluding Remarks.—But to conclude. Beyond this lake lie immense unexplored regions. The London Missionary Society recognises its stations on the lake as forming only a basis for the spread of missionary operations across the continent; and I would remind your Society that while, with Zanzibar for a basis, travellers have seldom penetrated much beyond the lake,—if they selected some such point as Ujiji for a similar base, wide and valuable explorations still further afield could be made with almost equal facility.

A kind of depot or headquarters might be made there, from which the explorer, relieved from the great strain and anxiety of the journey, could calmly regard and settle down to the work before him, and where a transit instrument could be set up. Even by the so-called old route a traveller, lightly laden, could march from the coast to Ujiji in seventy days, to which place supplies could be safely forwarded without his being burdened with the care and delay of a laden caravan. A party of African natives, without Europeans, are just now taking in the annual supply to our mission stations. The expense of residence would be trifling compared with that of the large party to be constantly maintained in caravan work, and the missionaries resident in the district would, I trust, ever afford a companionship and assistance, which more than one traveller has spoken of as being the reverse of depressing.

For my part, I would most heartily welcome, as a means of recommending Christian civilisation to the natives, the presence of any upright English gentleman.

I cannot possibly include in this paper an account of the other voyages I made upon the lake, but each country has been visited, and wherever I have been able to come face to face with the real natives I have never failed to make some friendly negotiations, and at several points we have distinct invitations to settle. There have been cases of mistaken identity, as when the people of Goma stoned me at night from their lofty hillsides; but when daylight revealed my white skin I was heartily welcomed to their shores.

Further reinforcements to our party have arrived at Ujiji in October 1880, I was at liberty to return to England to arrange for the new vessel which we hoped to obtain for service on the lake, for the further visiting of the people and the maintenance in efficiency of stations on its shores. I left Ujiji on the 3rd of November last year, and reached the coast in sixty-two days, meeting with a friendly reception all along the road, which we ourselves may truly be said to have opened up to the passage of Europeans.

The London Missionary Society have now determined to build and send out an efficient steam vessel in sections, and also to make fair trial of the new route by Lake Nyassa, though at the same time they see the importance of keeping open the old route, which now has four mission stations on it. The proposed new road between the lakes Nyassa and Tanganyika will form the connecting link (the steamer once being on Tanganyika), completing a chain of communication in English hands and by English means (including the coast-lines of the two lakes) of about 2000 miles. The carrying into operation of these two last inks—viz. the making of that road and the transport and launch of the steamer—will certainly be watched with interest by the friends of Africa, and, I trust, not allowed to fail.

The few results of general interest I have been able to place before geographers must be remembered to have been gathered amidst the pressure of the more immediate work of our Mission. I do not know how the cost in money of this work compares with that of other extensive African expeditions, past or present—perhaps not unfavourably— but the work has been done throughout upon the principles it has been planned to disseminate, without any bloodshed or disturbance between Europeans and natives, and with the loss of only some three or four of our porters from natural causes. I think I may say that a permanent way through the territories of some sixteen Central African tribes, representing a line of over 1500 miles of hitherto almost unknown country, has been secured, in the course of accomplishing which I have myself walked about 2500 miles and sailed over 1000. Three stations have been established in important centres, at two of which at least Christian influence is at the present moment gaining ground.

Whether the ordinary duties and responsibilities of English residents at those stations have been fulfilled by the missionaries, it is for the British and French Governments, the Royal Geographical Society, the African International Association, and the Roman Catholic missionaries to say. Of the still greater results for which the friends of missions hopefully look, let no man hastily judge.

Discussion

In introducing the author—

The President said that Mr. Hore was already well known to the Society, having frequently sent them from Central Africa letters of great interest, and he had occasionally taken part in the discussions at the meetings. His special work in the London Missionary Society’s operations on Lake Tanganyika, pointed out by his nautical education, was the thorough survey of the region, and the study of the inhabitants before the Mission entered upon its spiritual work. Although the name of Tanganyika was now very familiar, it is only twenty-three years ago that the lake was discovered by Burton and Speke. Since that time it had been visited successively by Livingstone, Stanley, Cameron, and Thomson, all of whom had furnished interesting observations regarding it, but by none of them had so complete an examination of the lake been made as by Mr. Hore. He was, therefore, sure that the Society would welcome the account he had to give of the longest fresh-water lake in the world.

The lakes of North America had formerly been regarded as the chief instances of lakes of a large size, but Tanganyika was at least 100 miles longer than Lake Michigan, to which in form it bore most resemblance.

After the paper:—

Commander V. L. Cameron said he had listened with great pleasure to Mr. Hore’s description of Tanganyika. It was only by chance that he was now present, as he was only paying a short visit to England, and would be on his return to the West Coast of Africa in a few days. Seven and a half years had passed since he visited the lake, and his memory might not be very accurate about everything that he saw, but Mr. Hore’s description of the southern end seemed to tally pretty well with the map he (Commander Cameron) had published. He had simply made one cruise around the southern end, while Mr. Hore had been in the district for over three years, and therefore his knowledge must be fuller than his own. With regard to the stone instruments mentioned by Mr. Hore, he had seen, not only near Tanganyika but in other places, similar pieces of stone used as a weight on a rough stick in digging by women who could not afford a piece of iron. The stone gave extra weight to the stick. With regard to the differences in names, he had two Ujiji guides with him, and these men gave different names to almost every river. After a long argument he had finally to fix on the one which he thought was the most correct. He did not know that Stanley had ever spoken of water hyenas, but he himself had at home two skins of Tanganyika otters which he shot on the lake. He never dreamt that they were anything else but otters. He complimented the lecturer on his perfect accuracy with regard to Ruanda. He (Commander Cameron) well remembered the long line of streets, and the people turning out to look at him. It was connected in his mind with a rather comical incident. As he was marching to his camp an unfortunate sheep walked in front crying ‘‘baa, baa,” as if he were heralding the approach of the white man. It was quite true that the rainfall on the lake varied from year to year in localities a very short distance from each other, and also according to the prevalence of the winds. With regard to the Lukuga, when Speke visited the islands close to Plymouth Rock, he spoke about a current setting in a peculiar direction, but he did not give any further particulars. Dr. Livingstone, the next visitor, passed by the outlet without seeing it, but described the vegetation setting towards that point. Before he (Commander Cameron) left Ujiji he heard very contradictory accounts about the outfall of the lake, and he wanted to enter every indentation where there was any chance of there being an outfall. He was guided partly by the breaks in the mountains, and partly by the names of the capes, some of which in the native language meant Cape Door —the door-posts of the outlet of the lake. Mr. Hore had been fortunate enough to see the outlet of the lake in full flow. The outflow from the Lukuga was formerly checked by the thick growth of aquatic vegetation. He had himself walked across the floating vegetation on Lake Moero, and at other places. It was curious to note, with respect to this phenomenon, that in an old book published by Ogilby in 1670, there was a description of floating vegetation of this nature, which gradually sank, but after a number of years was swept away. Sir Samuel Baker, as they all knew, had to cut his way on the White Nile through the same kind of obstructions. For many years previously the Nile had not risen to its ordinary height, and there was a scarcity in Egypt in consequence; but when Sir Samuel Baker cut through the vegetation, above which great lakes and swamps had been formed, those lakes and swamps were drained, and the Nile then resumed its normal rising. He believed that the same sort of vegetation had choked up the outlet of the lake, but when a small rise occurred above the ordinary level the water swept it away, and then the extra weight of water also swept away the hard clay sill that was across the entrance to the lake, where he saw the sud and the filtering of water through it. The Rugumba, forming its delta to the north, had brought down clay which made a hard sill, and now when the current was moderating, and the lake was resuming its normal level, the sill was again forming, and unless it was kept clear the lake might be again closed as it was when Stanley and he were there.

Mr. R. N. Cust said, that since Mr. Hore left Tanganyika, that region had been the scene of a great misfortune. Three European lives had fallen at the hands of the natives. Mr. Hore had described how kind the natives had been to him, and how happily he had spent three years among them. In the public press he had come forward as their champion, to defend them from the charge of being murderers and assassins. It was desirable that the exact circumstances, under which the three Europeans perished, should be stated. There could be no doubt as to the fact, because the Archbishop of Algiers had published an account of it. In Urundu, on the northeast side of the lake, there was a Roman Catholic Mission, consisting of four priests and one brother, an unordained missionary. They had been settled there for some time, and according to the custom of the French Roman Catholics, they commenced their work in this way. They presented arms, accoutrements, and gunpowder to the chiefs, and then began a system of purchasing slaves, under the name of “redeeming” them. Slave children were thus bought and educated. That was admitted by the Archbishop himself. How were those slaves obtained? Naturally, one tribe plundered another for them. The people of Urundu obtained the children from the Wabakari, who of course wished to get them back again. A system of reprisals commenced, and the Wabakari kidnapped and enticed away the children, who were the property of the missionaries. This went on for some time, until at last the missionaries sent to ask for one boy to be restored to them, adding that, if the request were not complied with, they would use force to recover him. The Wabakari took them at their word, and used force first. They suddenly invaded the missionary camp. Two unfortunate priests and one Belgian Pontifical Zouave stepped out of their hut, the latter with arms in his hands. The Wabakari, seeing this, at once delivered a shower of arrows, and killed them all. When the other missionaries came out of the hut, they saw the natives running away, frightened at what they had done. The unfortunate Europeans thus fell victims to their own bad system of dealing with the Africans. Connivance had been attributed to the Arabs, but there was no proof that the Arabs had anything to do with it. Mr. Hore had shown that, if not entirely friendly to Europeans, the Arabs were certainly not hostile. They behaved well to Cameron and Stanley, and although their system of slave-dealing was being opposed, they had not shown any marked hostility.

The PRESIDENT, in returning thanks to Mr. Hore for his paper, said it was the first account of Tanganyika given by one who had actually resided there for a considerable time. Mr. Hore had had ampler means of becoming acquainted with the character of the inhabitants than a traveller who merely passed through the country. What had already been accomplished there must inspire great confidence in the future. As he had previously said, only twenty-three years had elapsed since the discovery of Tanganyika, but now the whole of the shores, a length of 900 miles, had been surveyed, and observations of the most reassuring character had been made on the disposition of the inhabitants. Whether the tribes along the Congo were cannibals or not, and even some of them were as hostile to strangers as Stanley had described them to be, it was quite clear that in the neighbourhood of Tanganyika the natives were peacefully disposed, glad to welcome white men and Christians. There was another very encouraging fact. One of the great objects of the International African Exploration Society was to diminish the difficulties of African travel by planting stations which should become fresh starting-points for the traveller. Hitherto an explorer had had to collect his carriers at Zanzibar, and to traverse immense distances which were pretty well known, before setting out on fresh explorations; but the effect of establishing missions and stations at Ujiji and other towns would be to make those places new starting-points, at which goods could be accumulated, and carriers obtained. The Society would be pleased to know that Mr. Hore had materials for several other interesting papers, and before long he would no doubt give another address, which would enable the members still better to understand the people whose characters he had had such opportunities of studying.

by Edw. Coode Hore, Master Mariner.